Furniture - Buyers Beware version 2
This oversized leather chair was brought in with the ZigZag springs completely torn out. The customer had paid several thousand dollars for the chair. He said his daughter was using it as a trampoline. I must admit I was surprised that he had no intention of
having his daughter pay for the damages by doing chores at home. I guess it's a different world; unfortunately the child is the loser, not realizing what responsibility means nor respect
for another's property.
Anyway, back to the oversized chair. In examining the chair I was surprised to find that perhaps 20% of the chair had WOOD in it. The remaining 80% was CARDBOARD. Showing this to him, I told him the only way I could guarantee the job was to rebuild and reestablish a base or foundation for the chair which it didn't have. As you can see a chair that came into our shop bottomless, has left now, requiring two people to carry it. (I hope he mentions this to the little dear one. She will have a big surprise.) All in all what I'm trying to point out, is to be mindful of what you're buying, Big price-tags don't
mean anything.
This oversized leather chair was brought in with the ZigZag springs completely torn out. The customer had paid several thousand dollars for the chair. He said his daughter was using it as a trampoline. I must admit I was surprised that he had no intention of
having his daughter pay for the damages by doing chores at home. I guess it's a different world; unfortunately the child is the loser, not realizing what responsibility means nor respect
for another's property.
Anyway, back to the oversized chair. In examining the chair I was surprised to find that perhaps 20% of the chair had WOOD in it. The remaining 80% was CARDBOARD. Showing this to him, I told him the only way I could guarantee the job was to rebuild and reestablish a base or foundation for the chair which it didn't have. As you can see a chair that came into our shop bottomless, has left now, requiring two people to carry it. (I hope he mentions this to the little dear one. She will have a big surprise.) All in all what I'm trying to point out, is to be mindful of what you're buying, Big price-tags don't
mean anything.
Buying from the Internet or Catalogs
This past year, I have had a wave of lamps or floor lamps come in that have been purchased from mostly the internet, which no longer work and you just love how they look in the room or they just put out such wonderful light....
I certainly can't tell you what to do, but I do wish you would take the time to find out whether or not you can get replacement parts for these NEAT PIECES. Most of the items you are getting are not designed with universal parts, such as transformers, ballasts, wireless cartridge switches.
In some cases I know you're paying a lot of money, so please take the time to ask questions and get the extra parts when you buy the lamp and you'll be laughing.
This past year, I have had a wave of lamps or floor lamps come in that have been purchased from mostly the internet, which no longer work and you just love how they look in the room or they just put out such wonderful light....
I certainly can't tell you what to do, but I do wish you would take the time to find out whether or not you can get replacement parts for these NEAT PIECES. Most of the items you are getting are not designed with universal parts, such as transformers, ballasts, wireless cartridge switches.
In some cases I know you're paying a lot of money, so please take the time to ask questions and get the extra parts when you buy the lamp and you'll be laughing.
Furniture - Buyers Beware
It has occurred to me that perhaps I can advise or at least bring to your attention some of the do's and don'ts of buying furniture. For the longest time we were repairing 15 year old furniture and older, but in the last year we are repairing dining chairs that aren't even 6 months old, drawers under 2 years old and so on.
Keep in mind that Wood can be repaired. Pressed wood when it breaks it tears, or crumbles and is almost impossible to repair. Many times with wood we can cut out the broken area and shape another piece of wood into the break and almost make it new. You don't have that option with pressed wood. I realize the cost plays big part in the picture, but here are some ideas to consider when you go out to buy.
Suggestion:
Go to house sales. It is amazing what Real buys you can get and real wood. Have it refinished or altered to suit. Check out the Salvation Army, Goodwill Industries for used furniture and it will be real wood. Save your money and have it made.
Anyway, it was just a thought to point out some things to consider. If you have any questions, give us a call or write.
It has occurred to me that perhaps I can advise or at least bring to your attention some of the do's and don'ts of buying furniture. For the longest time we were repairing 15 year old furniture and older, but in the last year we are repairing dining chairs that aren't even 6 months old, drawers under 2 years old and so on.
Keep in mind that Wood can be repaired. Pressed wood when it breaks it tears, or crumbles and is almost impossible to repair. Many times with wood we can cut out the broken area and shape another piece of wood into the break and almost make it new. You don't have that option with pressed wood. I realize the cost plays big part in the picture, but here are some ideas to consider when you go out to buy.
- Most woods aren't as heavy as pressed wood. When the sales person points out how heavy and wonderful the piece is, you will know better.
- Take a little flashlight with you and look behind a pulled out drawer. The Mfg's don't finish the insides and you can see what it is made of.
- Furniture has a Huge mark-up. I have had to repair layered cardboard tops on dining tables, cabinets. It can be a nightmare especially when you have to pay to have it repaired in less than year.
- Another thought to consider is that now the Mfg. can by-pass using veneers and can spray a wood grain finish on pressed wood. Oh, for the day when the furniture maker will return to this country, but unfortunately the big bucks do the talking and the foreign markets prevail. Unfortunately, you now own a piece of what I call TREELAWN furniture. It can not be repaired if you let any liquids get on it or heat, as there is nothing to protect the so called wood grain finish. It will disappear and you will then see the pressed wood.
Suggestion:
Go to house sales. It is amazing what Real buys you can get and real wood. Have it refinished or altered to suit. Check out the Salvation Army, Goodwill Industries for used furniture and it will be real wood. Save your money and have it made.
Anyway, it was just a thought to point out some things to consider. If you have any questions, give us a call or write.
Furniture Cleaning
I have had several calls asking for ways to clean wood furniture. I can't name the polishing products to stay clear of for obvious reasons, however, I can say to read the can or bottle looking for the words Silicone or Silicates. They aren't the friends you want your furniture to associate with. Silicates, especially, will give a great sheen to the piece but there is something in it that also breaks down the finish and will cause dull spots to occur, thus, breaking down the finish. After you polish stand off to the side and look toward the piece in the light and you'll see what I am talking about. The other awful thing about Silicates for re finishers is that it can get into the wood grain and causes a condition called "fish" eye to occur making an ugly mess to handle. I don't think there is a finish that can hold up against these ingredients.
Years ago, when Cec and I first started refinishing, we worked with a chemist who made up products for us, and he gave us a recipe for cleaning the old wax or polish build up that occurs. If you follow the instructions to the letter, you will be a happy camper, however, if you substitute any of them you will have a Mess.
IN A GLASS JAR WITH TOP: ( METAL WILL CAUSE MIXTURE TO TURN BLACK AND PLASTIC WILL MELT.)
1/3 CUP OF WHITE VINEGAR
1/3 CUP OF BOILED LINSEED OIL (NOT RAW)
1/3 CUP OF TURPENTINE ( NOT PAINT THINNER)
THIS COMBINATION WILL SMELL VERY STRONG AND SHOULD BE DONE WITH GOOD VENTILATION. RECOMMEND DOING IT IN YOUR GARAGE.
NEXT: SHAKE THIS UP, IT WILL TURN AN UGLY YELLOW. USING #0000 STEEL WOOL YOU WANT TO DIP INTO THE MIXTURE AND RUB YOUR FURNITURE GOING WITH THE GRAIN. TRY NOT TO CLEAN USING A SWIRL TYPE MOTION. DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH BUILD UP YOU HAVE, ONE APPLICATION SHOULD BE ENOUGH. AFTER THIS DRIES, TAKE A COTTON SOFT RAG AND WIPE CLEAR. YOU WILL BE ABLE TO TELL IF YOU NEED TO REPEAT PROCEDURE. AFTER YOU HAVE REMOVED ALL THE OLD WAX OR POLISH, THEN PUT ON NEW AND YOU WILL SEE A DIFFERENCE.
REMEMBER: STAY CLEAR OF POLISHES THAT CONTAIN SILICATES...............
I have had several calls asking for ways to clean wood furniture. I can't name the polishing products to stay clear of for obvious reasons, however, I can say to read the can or bottle looking for the words Silicone or Silicates. They aren't the friends you want your furniture to associate with. Silicates, especially, will give a great sheen to the piece but there is something in it that also breaks down the finish and will cause dull spots to occur, thus, breaking down the finish. After you polish stand off to the side and look toward the piece in the light and you'll see what I am talking about. The other awful thing about Silicates for re finishers is that it can get into the wood grain and causes a condition called "fish" eye to occur making an ugly mess to handle. I don't think there is a finish that can hold up against these ingredients.
Years ago, when Cec and I first started refinishing, we worked with a chemist who made up products for us, and he gave us a recipe for cleaning the old wax or polish build up that occurs. If you follow the instructions to the letter, you will be a happy camper, however, if you substitute any of them you will have a Mess.
IN A GLASS JAR WITH TOP: ( METAL WILL CAUSE MIXTURE TO TURN BLACK AND PLASTIC WILL MELT.)
1/3 CUP OF WHITE VINEGAR
1/3 CUP OF BOILED LINSEED OIL (NOT RAW)
1/3 CUP OF TURPENTINE ( NOT PAINT THINNER)
THIS COMBINATION WILL SMELL VERY STRONG AND SHOULD BE DONE WITH GOOD VENTILATION. RECOMMEND DOING IT IN YOUR GARAGE.
NEXT: SHAKE THIS UP, IT WILL TURN AN UGLY YELLOW. USING #0000 STEEL WOOL YOU WANT TO DIP INTO THE MIXTURE AND RUB YOUR FURNITURE GOING WITH THE GRAIN. TRY NOT TO CLEAN USING A SWIRL TYPE MOTION. DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH BUILD UP YOU HAVE, ONE APPLICATION SHOULD BE ENOUGH. AFTER THIS DRIES, TAKE A COTTON SOFT RAG AND WIPE CLEAR. YOU WILL BE ABLE TO TELL IF YOU NEED TO REPEAT PROCEDURE. AFTER YOU HAVE REMOVED ALL THE OLD WAX OR POLISH, THEN PUT ON NEW AND YOU WILL SEE A DIFFERENCE.
REMEMBER: STAY CLEAR OF POLISHES THAT CONTAIN SILICATES...............
LAMPS, FLOOR LAMPS AND CHANDELIERS
As you can see in our Home Page, we do offer several services, one of which is the repairing, restoring, rewiring or making lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers. The reason for doing a blog on this subject, is always to educate and in this case to help prevent a main concern for anyone, Fire. There is a lot of information on this subject, hopefully interesting and unknown to many of you. Before I begin this lecture, let me qualify and say (I was an electrical contractor from 1980 to 2005 when I retired my license. I suppose I could wave a little flag and say I was the first woman to be licensed in the State of Ohio, having many interesting experiences which could be written in a book.)
Back to the topic and hopefully enlightening many of you. Lamp cords could be considered one of the most dangerous things in the home. Reason being they are either a 18 gauge wire or at the most 16 gauge wire. In actual fact this small gauge will not for the most part trip a breaker or blow a fuse and has caused many homes to catch on fire. I can remember this topic coming up at many code courses that I attended to maintain my certification, where the instructor Jerry Gerber, who was on the National Electric Code Panel, would say how difficult it was for the Code Panel to get the manufacturer's to redesign the lamp cord or extension cord because of the dangers they offered. Eventually they did come out with a redesigned attachment plug which had fuses in them set for less than 5 amps. I have always recommended using them with Christmas tree lights.
One important item here is that you check the stiffness the lamp cord. If it feels brittle, then it is time to change it. The insulation of the cord is breaking down and before long the wire will become exposed. (One point about Christmas tree lights, they should be changed out every 2 years according to the Fire departments)Another very important point is that lamp cords should always be exposed and NEVER put under any kind of carpet or rug. Still another important point is that if you have animals, be very careful to watch for cords that have been chewed. These last two points have caused many a fire.
The other part of the lamp is the socket. Interestingly, the push-thru switch socket has the highest wattage allowance of ( 660 watts) than the 3 way switch socket or the on/off socket which is 250 watts. The push-thru switch socket should be asked for when people are wanting to use the higher wattage bulbs.
I try to buy Leviton sockets for my customers as I do know they have a UL listing, but unfortunately even these are made in Mexico. I don't think anything is made in this country anymore. Very sad......These other countries don't have the standards that we have and consequently the products we are getting in barely meet if any of our traditional qualities. That is another topic and a SOAP BOX goes with it.
For people with older homes, let say built prior to the 2005 code. I strongly recommend that for lamps being used as a night light or used when you are out for the evening, get some timers and let different lights go on and off at different times, allowing bulbs to cool. You will not only save the lamp from breaking down, but it will offer some security in the event someone might be interested in taking a tour of your house when you're not there.
For those of you in newer homes, the national electric code was able to mandate in 2005 code that an ARC FAULT breaker be installed to protect all lighting in bedrooms,
now in the current 2008 code all new construction must have ARC FAULT breakers in family rooms, dining rooms, parlors, hallways, dens, rec. rooms., closets, and bedrooms. Kitchens, garages and basements aren't included as yet, but according to my friend and mentor, Jerry Gerber, this will happen. The ARC FAULT breaker is designed to detect any arcing in lamp cords, broken wires in ceiling lights etc. and will trip the breaker. This was the answer to the problem of lamp cords. However, it still doesn't solve the problem for the home owner that still owns the older home and can't afford the newer breakers as they are expensive and unfortunately the cities don't mandate that Load center upgrades have to have these put in.
As you can see in our Home Page, we do offer several services, one of which is the repairing, restoring, rewiring or making lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers. The reason for doing a blog on this subject, is always to educate and in this case to help prevent a main concern for anyone, Fire. There is a lot of information on this subject, hopefully interesting and unknown to many of you. Before I begin this lecture, let me qualify and say (I was an electrical contractor from 1980 to 2005 when I retired my license. I suppose I could wave a little flag and say I was the first woman to be licensed in the State of Ohio, having many interesting experiences which could be written in a book.)
Back to the topic and hopefully enlightening many of you. Lamp cords could be considered one of the most dangerous things in the home. Reason being they are either a 18 gauge wire or at the most 16 gauge wire. In actual fact this small gauge will not for the most part trip a breaker or blow a fuse and has caused many homes to catch on fire. I can remember this topic coming up at many code courses that I attended to maintain my certification, where the instructor Jerry Gerber, who was on the National Electric Code Panel, would say how difficult it was for the Code Panel to get the manufacturer's to redesign the lamp cord or extension cord because of the dangers they offered. Eventually they did come out with a redesigned attachment plug which had fuses in them set for less than 5 amps. I have always recommended using them with Christmas tree lights.
One important item here is that you check the stiffness the lamp cord. If it feels brittle, then it is time to change it. The insulation of the cord is breaking down and before long the wire will become exposed. (One point about Christmas tree lights, they should be changed out every 2 years according to the Fire departments)Another very important point is that lamp cords should always be exposed and NEVER put under any kind of carpet or rug. Still another important point is that if you have animals, be very careful to watch for cords that have been chewed. These last two points have caused many a fire.
The other part of the lamp is the socket. Interestingly, the push-thru switch socket has the highest wattage allowance of ( 660 watts) than the 3 way switch socket or the on/off socket which is 250 watts. The push-thru switch socket should be asked for when people are wanting to use the higher wattage bulbs.
I try to buy Leviton sockets for my customers as I do know they have a UL listing, but unfortunately even these are made in Mexico. I don't think anything is made in this country anymore. Very sad......These other countries don't have the standards that we have and consequently the products we are getting in barely meet if any of our traditional qualities. That is another topic and a SOAP BOX goes with it.
For people with older homes, let say built prior to the 2005 code. I strongly recommend that for lamps being used as a night light or used when you are out for the evening, get some timers and let different lights go on and off at different times, allowing bulbs to cool. You will not only save the lamp from breaking down, but it will offer some security in the event someone might be interested in taking a tour of your house when you're not there.
For those of you in newer homes, the national electric code was able to mandate in 2005 code that an ARC FAULT breaker be installed to protect all lighting in bedrooms,
now in the current 2008 code all new construction must have ARC FAULT breakers in family rooms, dining rooms, parlors, hallways, dens, rec. rooms., closets, and bedrooms. Kitchens, garages and basements aren't included as yet, but according to my friend and mentor, Jerry Gerber, this will happen. The ARC FAULT breaker is designed to detect any arcing in lamp cords, broken wires in ceiling lights etc. and will trip the breaker. This was the answer to the problem of lamp cords. However, it still doesn't solve the problem for the home owner that still owns the older home and can't afford the newer breakers as they are expensive and unfortunately the cities don't mandate that Load center upgrades have to have these put in.